June 13th, 2017

Kutna Hora Day Trip: Bones, Churches, and Wine

On Saturday, we took a half-day trip to the nearby town of Kutna Hora. Just about an hour and a half away, we left Prague at 10, hit three churches, drank some wine, ate lunch, and were back by 5. We Roam was nice enough to set us up with a bus and a guide, making it a very easy excursion. (If you’re DIYing it, we booked through Discover Prague.)

Our first stop was the Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady–nice enough, with a lovely ceiling, but not really worth the drive. Fortunately, our guide was setting the bar low, with much more to come.

The main tourist attraction is the Bone Church, or Sedlec Ossuary if you’d like to be precise, and it more than lived up to the creepy hype. The space was small, but overwhelming, with giant pyramids of bones in cages, bone garlands spanning the archways, and a bone chandelier centerpiece that reportedly contains every bone in the human body. 

According to our guide, the bones are meant to remind you of your mortality and so direct you towards god. As an atheist, my experience was less mystical and more just a matter of benign fascination. But it’s a sight I’m glad I was able to see.

Our third stop was the gorgeously Gothic Church of St. Barbara. I loved the ornate buttresses and the interior frescoes…


But if we’re going to be totally honest, what I loved even more was the tiny wine bar outside, with wines from the vineyards by the church and others nearby. We had a glass or two and took in the views. 

Then we moved into the town itself and had lunch in the lovely outdoor space at Dacicky. If you are traveling with a group, this restaurant is on it; we ordered in advance and had barely sat down when they started passing out soup–and beer, natch. We took a stroll through the Italian Court and saw St. Barbara’s again from a fresh angle. 

Then back on the bus to nap all the way home to Prague, full of local booze and heavy Czech cuisine. 

If I were doing this tour solo, I probably would have taken a couple more hours to wander the town itself, which looked adorable. But we certainly hit the highlights, and if you’re spending more than a few days in Prague, it’s a worthwhile day trip. 

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